Your essential guide for planning a road trip in Morocco

 

Have you ever driven in an Arabic country before? If you have then it’s exactly what you would expect in Morocco too- crazy driving, traffic-free for all in the major cities, and roads can turn to dirt rather quickly. If you stick to the main highways between the major cities, you should be fine road-wise as those roads are generally in pretty good shape but if you take any detours you could end up in dirt/sand and expect rougher road conditions. If it is your first time driving in an Arabic…or honestly any country that isn’t Europe or English speaking, know that driving in the cities will test your nerves and the other cars will get as close to you as physically possible. Also, get the insurance on the car, there are plenty of rocks in Morocco whose sole purpose in life is to miraculously fly into your window off the car tire in front of you, show up in the road out of nowhere and pop your tire, or sit conveniently on the shoulder of the road and pop the corner of your bumper off.

Use your passenger as a navigator and extra pair of eyes on the right side.

Ramadan — this is a special time — but always consider that smoking, drinking, and eating in public view during daylight hours will be frowned upon, even as a westerner. (Technically, unless a Muslim, you are exempt from fasting, as are people on obvious long journeys, the ill, infirm, and nursing or expectant mothers)

The flipside is night-time will be magical when everyone and everywhere comes alive. It’s like Christmas, but it lasts 30 days and ends with a huge feast. Daytimes are snoozy or difficult, depending on your attitude. 500ml bottles of water carried discretely will be useful to a westerner, during Ramadan. Keep hydrated (fruit juices, fresh if possible, or bottled fruit soft drinks otherwise)

Drive with caution but remember to take it casually and relaxed too — avoid getting over-stressed — especially in towns, your slow, gradual vehicle movements signal intentions as much as any turn signal (but use that too).

Moroccan city and town driving is much like Italian driving — a swarming sea of perpetual chaos — but it actually works OK most of the time as long as everyone moves slowly.

Don’t attempt to park where you see red-and-white-painted kerbstones = no stopping

Use the Toll motorways if you can, to cover distance fast. (Marrakesh to Casa definitely)

The biggest, heaviest vehicle has the right of way under the (laws of physics). Mass means might. Expect to have to pull off to the side on small roads in rural areas. Buses and trucks never stop and rarely slow down.

Use the Toll motorways if you can, to cover distance fast. (Marrakesh to Casa definitely)

The biggest, heaviest vehicle has the right of way. Expect to have to pull off to the side on small roads in rural areas. Buses and trucks never stop and rarely slow down.

Always carry drinking water in the car, 2 to 4L per person minimum, much more in summer or desert.

In extremely rural areas it’s polite to offer a lift to others at the roadside if possible (and you feel comfortable) — a great way to meet people. French will be a good lingua franca.

There are few fixed prices in Morocco, most transactions are at best based on mutual barter or at worst, your general appearance of gullibility.

The prices of food, daily or weekly household supplies are never bartered for, everything else is, unless you see a “prix fixee” sign (tourist shops only, usually)

If you pass a Carrefour or Marjane, stock up on everything that your soul desires.

For anything else you need, in the country, you approach the shopkeeper and ask.

Mechanics and tire repair places are excellent and cheap, as in the rest of Africa.

“Guardiens” parking dudes — semi-official or otherwise — rule their parking turf — 10Dh per night is the norm in most places for a westerner. They will usually indicate a place for you to park and are often in a dayglow vest. Keep them happy and they keep an eye on your car. Outside some tourist areas expect 20Dh per night. For an hour or two parking, 3–5 Dh. For 4–8 hours, 5–8Dh If they don’t catch you when you arrive, they will certainly get you on the way out.

If you are getting stressed on the street from characters, consider that you probably look like you have no idea where you are going or what you are doing. Plan every foray onto a city street first to avoid unwanted “help”.

- this is basically a result of the traditional Moroccan hospitality as much as anything else — if you look like you need help — you probably do — in a tipping society, that means you owe people if you are helped them (most of the time)

In rural areas, “help” is usually 20% curiosity and 80% concern for your welfare, and usually comes free, but beware of the carpet shop scam, “berber market — only today” sort of thing. It gets tiring fast and can make you tetchy. Be firm but (always) polite with people asking you to their shops.

On some roads, expect kids jumping out at you offering fossils or gemstone clusters — some are rather dangerous and have no perception of safety. Very common between Marrakech and Ouarzazate.

Further south, you may be offered dates, often in little woven baskets — they are very nice but again be careful you don’t run anyone over in their keenness for a sale.

Always, stay polite and consider that the vendors may not have eaten — some people do this for a living and have nothing else. Remember that as you scoff pastries and Bimu in your air-conditioned car.

Always take your time on driving trips — chill at cafes and break your car journeys at rural cafes for a coffee or tea.

Ask for “atay” with your thumb pointing across your chest 45degrees down to signify you want sweet refreshing Moroccan-style mint tea (otherwise you may be misunderstood and get a Lipton-brand lemon tea bag and a cup of hot water).

Coffee is European-style and strong — “qahwa nuss-nuss” literally means “coffee — half and half” — half hot, milk half black strong coffee. The standard unit of coffee is what Italians would call an espresso; French people would call this a cafe noir.

Small, very black, and very strong. Nuss-nuss is a good one to go for because it will signal you at least aren’t stupid enough to order coffee properly.

You know when you are getting it right — your stress will leave your soul and never return until you get home — trust me. If you’re hassled constantly you’re doing it wrong — so have a tea or coffee and watch the world go by until you drop back into Moroccan time (Ramadan timings permitting) Learn to ignore your watch and navigate your day by the calls to prayer alone.